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TRADITION, ECCENTRICITIES AND EDINBURGH: A CITY GUIDE

Updated: Feb 16, 2021

Scotland’s capital city and one of the most beautiful cities on earth, Edinburgh is a fantastic city with something to offer to everyone, from history-lovers to foodies. Located in the Central Belt of Scotland and on the southern shore of the Firth of Forth, the city has been the centre of Scottish politics, education, law, arts and monarchy for centuries, having an undeniable impact on the city’s development.


Today, it is an enchanting city with a unique atmosphere as Edinburgh castle and the Old Town loom overhead, contrasted by the city’s more modern yet still unmistakably grand New Town, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage sites, and that’s without even mentioning Calton Hill or the extinct volcano Arthur’s Seat. Known as the Athens of the North, Edinburgh has a dizzying array of attractions to offer. So what should you do when in the Scottish capital?


Old Town

The historic heart of Edinburgh, the Old Town runs uphill along the Royal Mile from Hollyrood Abbey and Palace to Edinburgh Castle. Walking along here will take you past many of Edinburgh’s most famous attractions. Start by Hollyrood Palace, which is the royal residence in the city and has been the home of the kings and queens of Scotland for hundreds of years. This is an interesting place not only to learn about the city’s past, especially Mary Queen of Scots (look out for her needlework of a cat), but also to explore the ruins of its abbey. The unique Scottish Parliament building is also nearby, which is a controversial modern structure that divides opinions.


Hollyrood Abbey


Head further up the hill (keeping your eye out for the John Knox house and the World’s End pub, marking the former boundary of the city, which the poor could not afford to leave, thus being their world’s end) and find the iconic 14th century St Giles’ Cathedral and its distinctive spire, the mother church of Presbyterianism, dedicated to the city’s patron saint. This is a beautiful cathedral and it is well worth visiting and seeing if they have any events; we visited during a choral recitation of classic Scottish hymns. Also be sure to visit the Thistle Chapel, built in the early 20th century and dedicated to the Order of the Thistle, the ancient Scottish order of knights.


St Giles Cathedral


In this area you’ll also find a statue of famous economist Adam Smith, a statue of philosopher David Hume (rub his toe for good luck) and one dedicated to Charles II statue in the car park – the oldest statue in Edinburgh. You’ll also find the grave of reformer John Knox in this car park, as well as the heart of Midlothian, marking the point where people used to be executed in the city. The cathedral is also right next to the Old Parliament Hall (dating back to 1639), where parliament was held prior to the 1707 Act of Union between the Parliaments of Scotland and England.


Head further up and you’ll reach Edinburgh Castle, which offers fantastic views over the city – well worth a visit even if you don’t pay to go in. Keep an eye out for a well dedicated to the witches burnt in Scotland (of which there were many), the Hub arts centre, the Scotch Whisky Experience (well worth a visit for those who want to learn about Scotch), Gladstone’s Land (an old tenement building typical of the city hundreds of years ago), and Camera Obscura.

Part of the charm of walking around Edinburgh’s Old Town is exploring its narrow side streets and courtyards, like Tweedale Court and Maker’s Court (particularly for the Writer’s Museum with its impressive book sculptures), and imagining how they would have looked hundreds of years ago when the city had among the tallest buildings in the world. Also be sure to visit the nearby Bank of Scotland building, the National Library and the National Museum of Scotland (this is among the best museums we’ve been to, with excellent overviews of Scottish and world history, not to mention Dolly the Sheep and a great terrace to watch over the city).

Edinburgh Castle


If you have time, make sure to visit the Museum of Edinburgh, the People’s Story Museum, Grassmarket (a nice area with vintage shops), Greyfriar’s Kirkyard (particularly famous for inspiring the names of many Harry Potter characters and being the resting place of Greyfriar’s Bobby, Edinburgh’s most faithful of hounds), St Cecilia’s (a music museum), the Talbot Rice Gallery (our favourite art gallery in the city, amidst the beautiful University of Edinburgh buildings), the McEwan Hall (although not really in the Old Town, it’s not far and is an impressive structure) and the Vennel and the nearby Flodden Wall, with excellent views of the castle. This area is also great fun to explore after dark, especially with a ghost walk.


New Town Make your way down the Mound from the Old Town and you’ll find yourself in the new town, filled with shops, beautiful architecture and gardens. The Princes Street Gardens will probably likely first catch your eye, which are a relaxing haven in the city with the castle looming up ahead. Keep an eye out for the statue of Wojtek the Bear (dedicated to the Polish struggle during the Second World War) and an incredible fountain. From here, make your way to St Cuthbert’s church and its grounds. Princes Street Gardens is also the home of the city’s famous Christmas market if you visit during the season.


View from Calton Hill


After admiring the buildings, head down Princes Street to pass the Scott Monument (dedicated to Walter Scott, the largest monument dedicated to a writer in the world), the famous Balmoral hotel (where JK Rowling finished Harry Potter) and then up Calton Hill for unbeatable views over the city, especially at sunset, with famous landmarks including the Nelson Monument (built in the shape of a telescope) and the National Monument of Scotland (an unfinished replica of the Parthenon dedicated to the Scottish soldiers who fell during the Napoleonic Wars). It’s also worth visiting the Old Calton cemetery (look out for a watchtower once used to look out for graverobbers) and the New Calton cemetery (including a monument to Scottish soldiers who fell during the American Civil War).


Dean


When in this area, it’s also worth visiting the City Arts Centre, the Scottish National Gallery (which exhibits a good range of Scottish art) and the Scottish National Portrait Gallery (which is worth a visit just for the building alone). This is a good area for shops, bars and restaurants and if you have time to explore further, consider heading to the picturesque Dean and taking a walk along the Waters of Leith to Stockbridge, which is among our favourite areas in the city.


Further Afield

Edinburgh is a fantastic city to explore and there’s plenty to visit outside of the centre. To begin with, Prestonfield House is a beautiful spot to unwind and make your way for a walk up the nearby Arthur’s Seat, with fantastic views over the city. Harry Potter fans may want to take a look at George Heriot School, reputed to be the inspiration for Hogwarts. The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art is also a little out of the way but well worth the detour for modern art fans, with some of the most engaging exhibits we’ve seen there.


Forth Bridge


Further afield still, consider visiting Leith, which is the city’s historic port, and North Queensferry, which is an incredible place for views over the Forth Bridge – truly one of the wonders of the modern world. Being in such a central location, it’s not hard to get from Edinburgh to the borders or further north to the Highlands. Glasgow is also nearby, which is another city with a lot to offer visitors. Scotland is after all one of our favourite countries on the planet and has a lot to offer visitors.


Read here for what to eat when in Edinburgh and here for a guide to Scotch whisky.

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