About Bologna
The capital of the Italian region Emilia-Romagna, Bologna, was founded by the Etruscans in around 500 BCE, having been occupied about 500 years before that. Since then, it’s seen Roman conquests, Gallic and Gothic raids, and its emergence as one of the wealthiest and most important cities in Italy in the Middle Ages. Its status as a city of utmost medieval importance is reflected by its prestigious university, in fact the oldest still operating university in the world – opening in 1088.
The city’s location on the edge of the fertile Po Plain at the foothills of the Apennine Mountains has not just gifted the city with economic wealth but also agricultural wealth, earning itself a reputation as an important city for Italian industry with brands like Lamborghini and Ducati based nearby, but also as an internationally renowned foodie city (for more on the city’s food, click here).
It is this fortuitous location and history that has not only filled the beautiful blush portico-covered streets (it’s home to over 40km of porticos, more than anywhere else on earth) with a spirit that is the epitome of Italian elegance but also with a counter-culture rebelliousness and yearning to do things differently. Despite Bologna’s relatively small size, there’s plenty to do in the city, reflecting its rich history and culture.
Two Towers
The Two Towers (Le Due Torri in Italian) are arguably the most famous symbol of the city. The Asinelli (the taller, at 70 metres) and the Garisenda (nearly 50 metres with a leaning overhang of nearly 4 metres) towers were built in the 12th century, named after the families that constructed them. The Asinelli was used in the 17th century to measure the rotation of the earth and the Garisenda has been referenced by Dante in The Divine Comedy. While these are the two most famous towers in Bologna, there are actually more than 20 in the city. What’s even more impressive is that there used to be 180 in the city, built by prestigious families to demonstrate their power, trying to both protect themselves and pettily one-up their neighbours making the city look like a Medieval Manhattan. A fun game to play is to walk around the old town of Bologna and see how many other towers you can spot.
Piazza Maggiore
Not far from the Two Towers, Piazza Maggiore is at the heart of Bologna and is surrounded by beautiful former administrative buildings and the Basilica of San Petronio. Largely the same in layout for around 600 years, the Piazza Maggiore is also at the heart of many of the city’s cultural events – including film festivals with the largest screen in Europe (see here). When here, be sure to visit the Basilica of San Petronio, the tenth largest church in the world with a beautiful Gothic interior. Named after the patron saint off the city, the basilica also features a rather unflattering 15th century fresco of the Muslim prophet Muhammad, which made it the target for an unsuccessful Al Qaeda plot in 2002.
Once at the basilica, be sure to go around the back to the scaffolding. From here, for just a couple of euros, you can get a lift up to the top of the basilica and get unbeatable views of the city. We highly recommend this.
In the Piazza Maggiore area, also visit the Fountain of Neptune. Built in the 16th century as a symbol of the pope’s power, Neptune’s trident in this fountain was the inspiration for the Maserati logo. Another interesting titbit about this fountain is that apparently Neptune’s manhood was originally much larger but the pope felt this was immodest. So, the sculptor made Neptune’s finger point in a way that when you look at it from a certain angle, Neptune’s manhood is fully restored. Also worth a visit in this area are the pioneering inventor Marconi’s birthplace and damage left from an Allied bombing raid in 1944.
The University of Bologna
Being home to the world’s oldest operating university has given Bologna some points of remarkable interest. Perhaps most notably is the Archiginnasio of Bologna, once the main building of the university and now home to the Archiginnasio Municipal Library and the Anatomical Theatre. Built in the 16th century, the building is remarkably beautiful with mesmerizingly adorned walls and ceilings, resembling something out of the world of Harry Potter. Visiting is free, but to access the library and anatomical theatre, there’s a modest entry fee.
The anatomical theatre was once used for anatomy lectures at the university’s medical school, carved from wood and presided over by a teacher’s chair with skinned figures holding it up. A statue of Apollo – the god of medicine and knowledge, among many other pursuits - watches over the dissection table along with statues of Hippocrates. The theatre was severely damaged during Allied bombing in the Second World War, but it was masterfully restored using all of the original parts found in the rubble.
Another point of interest relating to the university is the Zoological Museum, which began as a cabinet of curiosities. Remarkably interesting with some – shall we say – unfortunate examples of taxidermy, this is free to visit and also has interesting displays also relating to anthropology.
Canals
While they’re buried today, the canals that flowed through Bologna were vital to the city’s development (see more regarding their locations here). You can still see some of the old canals that were so crucial to the city, with the most popular view being from the window in Via Piella, which looks over the Reno Canal. If you fancy a more relaxed view of the canals, try from Via Malcontenti.
Churches
Bologna is home to dozens of churches, reflecting the city’s historical wealth. While we mentioned the Basilica of San Petronio earlier, many others are also worth a visit. A personal favourite is the Basilica of Santo Stefano, otherwise known as the Seven Churches. Originally built as a temple to Isis during Roman times (there are still mosaics visible), Saint Petronius ordered for it to be built over by a church that reflected the Holy Sepulchre. There is a phenomenal variety of architectural styles and history in this building, making it one of the most interesting sites in the city to visit.
Other interesting churches include the Basilica of San Domenico, which is home to intriguing relics (including a mummified hand) and sculptures, including one by Michelangelo himself. Speaking of mummies, Corpus Domini is home to the mummy of Saint Caterina, which is open to the public (I believe from about 4pm) under the supervision of the church’s watchful nuns, as well as works by Carracci. Bologna Cathedral is also worth a visit, with an extraordinarily high ceiling. If you’re up for the walk, head to the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca on a walk through the longest series of porticos in the world (read more here).
The best part of Bologna is just exploring the city’s beautiful streets and for a relatively small city, it has a huge amount to offer. Other things that are of interest include the Cinema Lumière – renowned for its restorations, the modern art museum MAMbo and of course the city’s food.
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