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THE SURREAL BREWERY CITY OF PRAGUE: A GUIDE

Updated: Dec 4, 2018

About Prague

The capital of the Czech Republic and its largest city, Prague is a beautiful cobble-stoned and leafy mix of the old and new. Home to sprawling parks with breath-taking views and some of the best examples of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque architecture in Europe – relatively architecturally untouched by the Second World War – Prague is an idyllic setting for one of the most important cities on the continent. It is a city of beer, hearty food and a revelry for the absurd.

The Vltava River and Charles Bridge in Prague

Founded in the 7th century, Prague has served as the seat and capital for Bohemian kings, Holy Roman emperors and Czech presidents for centuries, while also being a crucial city to the Austro-Hungarian Empire and the Hapsburg monarchs. It is due to this history, and its fortuitous location as a trade hub with a bridge over the River Vltava, that it is witnessed some of the most interesting events in European history, including the start and end of the Thirty Years’ War, the Prague Spring, the assassination of the Nazi Reinhard Heyrdrich and the Hussite Wars.


It is also a city of culture, famous for its classical Romantic musician sons Dvořák and Smetana and its most famous literary export Franz Kafka. With its great transport infrastructure and ready availability of Ubers, it’s also incredibly easy to get around. It is, unsurprisingly, a city with a lot to do, see, eat and drink (click here for our foodie guide). Here’s some of our suggestions.


Old Town - Staré Město

Prague’s Old Town is among the most beautiful areas of the city, if not Europe. The first place to head to is the Old Town Square and although it can get a bit touristy, it’s still well worth a visit. There’s a range of important buildings here like the Gothic Church of Our Lady before Týn and the world-famous Prague Astronomical Clock on the Old Town Hall, with events often being held here too. The medieval clock on the town hall is a big tourist attraction and it’s no wonder why really, hosting a remarkably complex and macabre mechanical clock and astronomical dial system – with the built-in models in the clock giving an hourly show. Also keep an eye out for the meridian line in this square.

Not far from here lie other interesting buildings like the art nouveau masterpiece the Municipal House (check out its cafe as well for a good Czech cake) and the Gothic Powder Tower from the old city gates. Don’t overlook the Basilica of St. James, where eagle-eyed visitors will notice the mummified hand of a thief dangling not far from the entrance. Fans of the macabre should also head to the Museum of Torture Instruments, also not too far from here and home to some rather disturbing exhibits.

There’s also a few interesting works of public art nearby, including a few by the legendary Czech sculptor David Černý, namely the surreal statue of King Wenceslas riding an upside down dead horse in the beautiful art nouveau Lucerna Palace and the revolving head of Prague’s best known literary son Franz Kafka near the Quadrio shopping centre. Not far from here, at the intersection between Husova and Skorepka, look up and you’ll see Černý’s Man Hanging Out – a sculpture of Freud hanging on for dear life.

Jewish Quarter - Josefov

Named after the Holy Roman emperor Joseph II who emancipated the historic Jewish ghetto in this region, Prague’s Jewish Quarter is home to a number of architectural wonders, including the Gothic Old New Synagogue – the oldest active synagogue in Europe. According to local legend, it is here that the golem of Prague rests, created by the rabbi of the synagogue hundreds of years ago to protect the area’s residents from the pogroms, situated in its attic. This area was also Franz Kafka’s birthplace with Jaroslav Róna's sculpture Franz Kafka Monument, celebrating this street. Other places of interest include the beautiful Spanish Synagogue and the Old Jewish Cemetery. Despite being occupied by the Nazis, this area’s beautiful buildings remain. However, this was due to plans to create a ‘Museum of a Lost Race’. Plans that were thankfully never realised.

Other points of interest include the Speculum Alchemiae museum in one of the oldest houses in Prague, where visitors can tour an alchemist’s workshop created for the mad Holy Roman emperor Rudolph II, which was only discovered after a flood about a decade ago. They restored the workshop and the office of its resident alchemist, making for an eye-opening insight into the fascinating blend of magic and science at the time. Also, be sure to try a trdelnik from one of the many shops in this area.


New Town - Nové Město

The New Town is home to a wide range of buildings, from the striking National Museum off of Wenceslas Square, the traditional New Town Hall off of Charles Square (this is where the First Defenestration of Prague took place in 1419, sparking the Hussite Wars) and the innovative Dancing House, looking over the River Vltava. Near here, in an area by the river known as Náplavka, is a pleasant spot with bars and restaurants on boats. Head here on a Saturday morning for a farmer’s market. Also keep an eye out for where the Nazi occupier Heydrich was assassinated, the bullet holes are still there along with a memorial to all those who died in the catastrophic retaliation on the Czech people. After a short walk up the Vltava, you’ll notice two flame-shaped sculptures. This is a memorial to Jan Palach, a young man who set himself alight in 1969 following the Prague Spring and the resumption of the oppressive Communist regime in the country.

Vinohrady and Žižkov

A little further out but still easily accessible, these two parts of the city have a lot to offer. For starters, Vinohrady is home to the excellent Havlíčkovy Gardens, with mesmerising views over the city and the vineyards below (Prague isn’t just about beer, read our guide to Czech wines here). This park also features a surreal artificial cave, known as the Grotta. Entry is free.

Žižkov features the National Monument in Vitkov, with a statue of Jan Žižka who fought off Catholic forces at the Battle of Vitkov Hill in 1420. It was initially built as a monument to the Czechoslovak Legionaries of the First World War, but it was later co-opted for use by the Communist regime. Not far from here is the Žižkov Tower – you can’t miss it – with great views over the city, as well as a fine dining restaurant and bar Oblaca (you can read our review here).

Vyšehrad

The former seat of the Czech monarchy before the 14th century, Vyšehrad is now most famous for the Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul (St Valentine’s shoulder blade lies within) and its incredible cemetery, not to mention its views over the city. Keep an eye out for the graves of the famous Czech musicians Dvořák and Smetana.

Malá Strana

Head over the beautifully Gothic Charles Bridge with its 30 statues – once an important bridge for trade and now equally important for tourism – and you’ll be in Malá Strana, one of the oldest parts of the city. Once here, you can find another Černý sculpture Proudy in front of the Franz Kafka Museum, featuring two statues urinating Czech literature into a puddle in the shape of the Czech Republic. U Lužického Semináře, the narrowest street in Prague, is also nearby with its own set of traffic lights – although the tourists never bloody use them. In this area, also look for the graffiti-covered Lennon Wall – which interestingly belongs to Malta – the Museum of Alchemists and Magicians of Old Prague and the Baroque Wallenstein Palace with its rather creepy Dripstone Wall. Prague Castle is also nearby, with too much to say about it here, so you can read more by clicking on this article here.

Petřín Hill

South of the castle area lies Petřín Hill, an excellent park filled with sculptures, historic vineyards, orchards, religious buildings and more. The hill was formerly one of King Charles IV’s vineyards with vines still grown near the 12th century Strahov Monastery, which also houses a remarkable library and has been an important seat of knowledge in the city for centuries. Right at the top of the hill, reachable by foot or by a funicular, is the Petřín Tower – a miniature of the Eiffel Tower in Paris. When here, also consider popping into the Magical Cavern – an art gallery transformed by a local eccentric artist into a, well, magical cavern – and looking out for red squirrels and other wildlife.

Other points of note in the park include the horrifying Memorial to the Victims of Communism and the statue for the romantic writer Karel Hynek Mácha. Towards the south of the hill lies one of the most beautiful hidden gems of Prague – the Carpathian Ruthenian Church of the Saint Michael Archangel. This is a wooden Eastern orthodox church with captivating views over the city. Art lovers should also check out the Futura Gallery from here, which isn’t too far. Click here to read more on this gallery.

Other Points of Interest

Being a large city with such an incredible history and vibrant culture, there’s a lot more on this list that hasn’t been mentioned. Enjoy wandering Prague’s beautiful cobble streets and also consider checking out the Výstaviště with its musical light fountain, the Prague Metronome – built on the site of the former largest ever statue of Stalin – and the Prague Zoo, one of the best in the world.


Feeling peckish? You can read our Prague food guide here, our beer guide here and our wine guide here.

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