About Esztergom
Situated right on the Danube and Slovakian border, Esztergom is a quiet and picturesque town filled with history. It was the former Hungarian capital, where the Hungarian king St Stephen converted the Hungarian tribes to Catholicism, forever changing the course of European history. The area was originally settled by the Celts before being conquered by the Romans, when the settlement served as an important frontier town in the region. After the collapse of the Roman Empire, Slavs settled in the area before its conquest in the 9th century by the Hungarian tribes. This was St Stephen’s birthplace, right on top of its iconic Castle Hill. In the thousand years since then, the Hungarian capital moved but it remained an important centre of Hungarian culture. During the 16th and 17th centuries, Esztergom was occupied by the Ottoman Empire and was again at a cultural frontline in conflict with Hapsburg forces who eventually took over the town, restoring its importance.
The city was rebuilt following this, with Hungarians, Slovakians and Germans settling the area. The city and the surrounding area was heavily affected by the First World War and the subsequent Treaty of Trianon, the Holocaust and Second World War. The city, with its magnificent architecture, history, cultural importance to Hungary and incredible views across the Danube and into Slovakia make it well worth a visit.
Getting There
During the warmer months, boats and hydrofoils leave Budapest on tours to Esztergom, stopping off at places like Visegrad along the way. You can drive there or catch a very reasonably priced train from Budapest Nyugati to Esztergom, taking about two hours in total.
What to See and Do
When in Esztergom, head to the Castle Hill area – where St Stephen was born – and visit the incredible Esztergom Cathedral. This is the tallest building in Hungary, standing at 100 metres, and has superb views over the river and baroque Víziváros district below. While entry is free, you can pay to go to the top of its dome for even better views. Right next to the cathedral are the remains of Esztergom Castle, as well as a park and neo-classical Dark Portal under the artificial slopes of Castle Hill.
Just at the bottom of the Castle Hill is the Víziváros (Watertown) district, with beautiful cobbled streets and even the remains of a former mosque from the Ottoman era – now fittingly a coffee house. Also nearby are the former synagogue, the Christian Museum and Courthouse, but the best part of this area is its quaint cobbled atmosphere. A short walk from here is the Saint Thomas church, on top of a small hill, and downtown Esztergom with a good range of restaurants, bars and cafes.
An unbelievable part of a visit to Esztergom is that you can just walk into Slovakia. The Maria Valeria bridge, which was destroyed by retreating German soldiers in the Second World War and rebuilt with EU support in 2001, is an incredible symbol of modern Europe that connects Hungary and Slovakia with a frictionless border over the Danube. This bridge also provides the best views over Esztergom’s Castle Hill itself.
In short, Esztergom is a town brimming with history, tradition and a surprisingly cosmopolitan feel to it, being a perfect day trip from Budapest or a destination in its own right.
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