Once named the gastronomic capital of France, Lyon has long had a fantastic reputation for food. Drawing chefs from all over the world to train in the city, Lyon has been the breeding ground for France’s rock-star chefs for decades with an undeniable impact not only on French cuisine but also international cuisine.
Brioche
From its traditional bouchons, originally frequented by the city’s busy silk traders hundreds of years ago, to modern experimental cuisine and some of the most interesting delicacies in France, Lyon has a lot to offer foodies – and that’s without even mentioning its nearby fantastic wines, great beer scene and internationally renowned sweet delights. So what should you eat when in Lyon?
Food
To get a good taste of Lyon and its history, you have to visit a bouchon. These are restaurants with a history dating back to the 17th century when silk traders would stay at inns in the city and be in need of a good meal to relax. These are generally unpretentious and affordable places, making them the perfect place to try traditional Lyonnaise dishes, from saucisson de Lyon (sausage with pistachio), tablier de sapeur (like a tripe schnitzel) and andouillette (tripe sausage) to Salade Lyonnaise and Quenelles de Brochet (fish dumplings in crayfish sauce). All this, with a relaxed and jovial dining atmosphere, finished off with tarte praline and local cheese and a local Beaujolais. Expect to share dishes with other tables in some while fellow diners have a sing song.
Quenelle de Brochet
Good bouchons include Daniel et Denise, Chez Paul and our favourite Café des Federations. Café des Federations is famed for their ‘fly-killer’ cheese, which is a must for any lover of strong flavours that numb your face.
Not a bouchon but definitely a Lyonnaise institution, Brasserie Georges is a huge Alsatian brasserie with excellent food and excellent beer, with over one hundred years of history in the city. With big hearty dishes perhaps more akin to what you’d find in central Europe, this is another one of our favourite places to visit in Lyon and their dark beer is simply incredible if you want a change from the wine.
Bresse chicken
Another Lyonnaise essential is its Bresse chicken, which you can find in its markets or better yet at Le Comptoir du Poulet, where you can buy an entire roast Bresse chicken. Speaking of Lyon’s markets, Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse are a must-visit for foodies in the city. Filled with small restaurants and shops highlighting Lyonnaise cuisine and produce, we highly recommend visiting Seve and picking up some macarons (among the best we’ve had), then Voisin for coussins du Lyon (symbols of the city and distinctive green chocolate cushions filled with marzipan, there’s also a shop in Presqu'île) and Délices des sens for a praline brioche (without a doubt one of the nicest things we’ve ever had). This is also a good place to try cheeses and meats, finished off with a nice round meal at AOC in Les Halles. Try the bone marrow.
Croix-Rousse is another good area to explore for shops, with Sibilia being great for cured saucissons and Fromagerie Galland being a good spot to pick up local cheeses. Saint-Marcellin is our personal favourite. For a more modern view into Lyon’s cuisine, head for Les Apothicaires, with its experimental cuisine. This was reasonably priced and among the best food we had in the city.
Les Apothecaires
For those on more of a budget, keep an eye out for places to try croques monsieur and a Lyonnaise taco.
Drink
Being just a stone’s throw from the Beaujolais wine region and just another (admittedly a little further) stone’s throw from the Côtes du Rhône, Lyon is a great place for wine lovers without it being prohibitively expensive. Dining out at a traditional bouchon will likely see you ordering a pot, or a small bottle of local wine often in restaurant-unique bottles, with the word following pot telling you more about the wine’s origin (e.g. pot Beaujolais). Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse are again a good place to sample local wines and also pick up a couple of bottles. Cavavin in Croix-Rousse is also a good spot, with helpful staff and excellent prices.
If beer is more your scene, then La Crafterie is a must-visit. This beer shop sells hundreds of types of beer from all over Europe, with a particular focus on the Lyonnaise craft beer scene. Again, the staff here are very knowledgeable and happy to help you learn. While we believe it’s a chain, Les Berthom is a good spot if you want a good French beer.
For cocktails, head for L’Antiquaire, a bar in the centre with an extensive list and good mixologists. Wagon Bar, which is by the Confluence area and right next to the Saône, also has a great atmosphere and views over the river. For a bar with good views and good wines, head to Le Melhor, which overlooks the Rhône. This is particularly lovely at sunset. Celest Bar in Tour Part-Dieu also offers fantastic views at night.
Le Melhor
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