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SUN, SEA AND SPQR: SPLIT CITY GUIDE

Updated: Feb 18, 2021

About the City

The second-largest city in Croatia and the largest city in the region of Dalmatia, Split is one of the jewels of the Adriatic, filled with sun, sea, history, great buildings and food. Home to the palace of the Roman emperor Diocletian, Split is an impressive city where the impact of the Roman empire is undeniable.



Its narrow cobbled streets are intoxicating, transporting you back hundreds of years as you walk around. It is also a great base to go and explore the nearby islands of the Adriatic or the Dinaric Alps just behind the city. From among the best food in Europe to sphinxes in spectacular condition, Split is both somehow full of surprises and a place where you can really unwind with a glass of wine or coffee as you watch the internationally renowned Dalmatian sunset over the glistening Adriatic.


You can read more about Split’s food scene here and Croatian wine here.


History of Split

Considering Split’s fortunate location, nestled between highlands and islands, it has unsurprisingly attracted many peoples over the ages, leading to an interesting history at this cultural crossroads. Originally founded as a Greek colony in the 3rd century BC to trade with the local Illyrian tribes, it was later conquered by the Romans before Diocletian’s Palace was built in 305 AD, close to the important Roman city of Salona. With the fall of the Roman empire, Salona was sacked by the Slavs and Avars who later settled in the area while the fortified palace was home to Roman refugees, later becoming a Byzantine city. As an independent city state, the city later gravitated between the influence of the medieval Kingdom of Croatia and the Republic of Venice.



Split later became a Venetian city as an outpost surrounded by Ottoman controlled land. When the Republic of Venice fell in 1797, the city of Split was given to the Hapsburgs, before being exchanged between the Italians, French, Austrians and later Yugoslavians. It was annexed once again by Italy during the Second World War, before rejoining Yugoslavia after the war and eventually becoming part of an independent Croatia in 1991. These influences are all abundantly clear in the city’s architecture, culture and cuisine.


What to See and Do in Split

Without a doubt one of Split’s biggest attractions is Diocletian’s Palace, the Roman emperor’s retirement complex and the heart of Split’s UNESCO World Heritage Site historical city centre. Walk around its ancient cellars, which Game of Thrones fans may recognise, stand in its vestibule and march through its gates.



Particularly interesting are the 3,500-year-old Egyptian sphinxes from the tomb of Pharaoh Thutmose III and the nearby incredibly well-preserved Temple of Jupiter, built in 305 AD, and the Golden Gate.



Right in the centre you can’t miss St. Domnius’ Cathedral with its iconic Romanesque bell tower in what was once Diocletian’s mausoleum; it still holds the sarcophagus of Emperor Diocletian and is among the most interesting churches in Europe. The buildings in the old town are also filled with interesting sights, with even a Spar supermarket featuring spectacular ancient columns inside.



Another major attraction in Split is its beautiful seafront and beaches. Talk a walk along the Riva Promenade to the popular Matejuška meeting point, with nearby bars and restaurants and a good place to people watch. The Church and Monastery of St. Frane is also nearby. Split is filled with lovely places to hang out, such as the picturesque squares Trg Republike, Narodni Trg and Vocni Tr, and its centre is small enough for everything to be in walking distance.



Marjan Hill and the Veli Varoš neighbourhood are also close to Matejuška, with the beautiful and quaint Church of St Mikula standing understated in Veli Varoš. While there are many beaches in the area, head for Firule beach, which is a good place to watch people playing the traditional Dalmatian game picigin, sort of like volleyball in shallow water.



Split is also a major port with many nearby islands like Hvar or Brac being easy to get to, with the ferry journeys worth the trip alone. We went to Brac, which is a good place to sit by the harbour with a relaxing coffee and to explore its Roman ruins, stunning cemetery, mosaics, streets and St Martin’s Church and the Parish Church of Annunciation. Try to get on a ferry around sunset for one of the highlights of the Adriatic.



Also interesting but a little further afield are the ancient source of Split’s water, Diocletian’s aqueduct, the ruins of the Roman city of Salona, Klis Fortress and the Dinaric Alps. It’s also worth paying a visit to the Split City Museum, the statue of Grgur Ninski (a hugely important figure in Croatian history, it’s good luck to rub his toe), the Church of Our Lady of Health and the Croatian National Theatre to catch a show or just admire the building.



In short, Split has everything you need to unwind and really has something for everyone in a way that few other places have. Split also has one of our favourite restaurants and food scenes in the world, which you can read about in our food guide here.

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