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LISBON CITY GUIDE: DOORWAY TO THE ATLANTIC

Updated: Feb 19, 2021

The Portuguese capital is the perfect spot for a getaway, promising great food, unique architecture and an explosion of culture. With it being among Europe’s oldest cities (dating back to 1200 BC, centuries before Rome), there’s plenty to discover in this city, which is often overlooked in favour of other popular capitals like Paris and London despite having just as much to offer. With so much to see, eat and do, it can get a little overwhelming when exploring an unfamiliar culture, but hopefully this guide can help you get the most out of a getaway to the City of Seven Hills (a nickname the city shares with Rome, not to mention many others).

Getting Around

Lisbon’s public transport is incredible, with regular buses, trains, a subway system and of course trams connecting the city. If you’re flying into Lisbon, don’t get a taxi from the airport, just get the metro system. It’ll save you a lot of money and taxis at the airport, as with most airports, needlessly hike their prices. That being said, Uber is very affordable in the city and although they may be reluctant to pick you up from the airport, travel one stop on the metro inside the airport and then get an Uber from there. It’ll be about a third of the price.


The public transport is very good and a zapping ticket can be purchased from machines, which is a rechargle card that allows you to use the city’s buses, trains, trams, underground and ferries for a reasonable price. Tram, metro and bus stations are dotted all over the city, but if you want a major station to get a train out of Lisbon itself, look for Rossio Station. This will also take you to Sintra for under 2 EUR (read our guide to Sintra here), while the Cais do Sodré train station will take you to places like Cascais and Belém (read our guides here and here).

The City Centre

One of the major sights in Lisbon’s city centre is the Praça do Comércio, the former site of a great royal palace destroyed in the devastating 1755 earthquake, but rebuilt as the city’s main square along with the rest of the city, symbolosing its revival. The square overlooks the Tagus river and the Setúbal peninsula beyond it (read our guide to Setúbal here – accessible via ferry and train), while trams meander in front of the Arco da Rua Augusta. You can also take buses from this area (the 728) to the Oceanarium (18 EUR per person and well worth a visit) and Belém. This arch is magnificent and provides great views over the entire city and the river in front of it, all for just 2.50 EUR, without any of the queues you get at the Elevador de Santa Justa (although this lift is beautiful).

From here, walk around Baixa behind the arch and take in its majestic streets, taking you past the Elevador de Santa Justa and eventually into Rossio Square. This is a fantastic area for Portuguese pavement and if you’re looking for a good restaurant in this area, head over to El Rei D. Frango. It’s also very close to Rossio Station.


If you don’t mind walking up a relatively steep hill, then skip the queues for the Elevador de Santa Justa and walk up to Chiado, which is where it stops anyway. From here, you can look out over the city centre with the same views as you’d get on the lift, while also being able to admire the lift itself, which was designed by Raoul de Mesnier du Ponsard, a former apprentice of Gustave Eiffel (he of Eiffel Tower fame). The top of the lift also holds the ruins of the Carmo Convent, destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. The area is one of the best for shopping and is great to explore when looking for something to eat or drink in elegant settings.

While on the subject of food, the Cais do Sodré area is the perfect place to discover the city’s cuisine, namely in the Time Out Market (read our guide here). There’s also a plethora of bars and restaurants, including the incredible Sol e Pesca, a restaurant devoted to the Portuguese love of tinned fish. There’s also a station here to take you to Cascais and Belém.

Alfama

Alfama is the oldest part of the city, its name coming from the Arabic for hot fountains, revealing its Moorish past. It’s still home to a Moorish castle, namely the São Jorge Castle (09:00-18:00 every day, 8.50 EUR entry), as well as Lisbon Cathedral, Roman ruins and Fado bars, all with marvellous views over the Tagus river below.

Tram 28-phobia?

Alfama is a magical part of the city, with Tram 28 pootling down its narrow streets. While we’re on the subject of Tram 28, you may have read the warnings for tourists about gangs of pickpockets unfortunately frequenting it. If you’re worried and enjoy a walk, make sure you’re wearing comfortable shows and follow the route from Alfama, through Praça do Comércio, then onto the Assembleia da Republica (the Portuguese parliament building) and finally the Basílica da Estrela, where the tram comes to an end. There’s a lovely garden opposite the basilica to unwind with a coffee and people watch. Alternatively, you can book one of the tourist trams (like this one) to enjoy the city without the walk.

If you did want to experience a tram-like experience, we highly recommend the Elevador da Bica, which takes you up from Cais do Sodré to the Miradouro de Santa Catarina. There’s a great bar here (called Noobai – they do a good selection of Portuguese beers, read more about them here) where you can sit back and enjoy the city and can even see the planes coming into land.


Going Further Afield

With the high quality of public transport in Lisbon, it’s easy to get out of the city centre and towards other further afield areas, like the Oceanário de Lisboa, Belém, Cascais and Setúbal. All of these are worth exploring if you have the time, but if you’d like to find out more, you can read our guides to Belém here, Cascais here, Sintra here and Setúbal here.

Further Tips and Suggestions

Of course, given the city’s size and history, there’s countless museums and galleries and other attractions that we haven’t listed (interesting ones include the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, the doll hospital and the Fado museum). Transport is very cheap but remember to get a zapping tickt. Remember to keep your eyes on the pavements and on the tiles on the buildings. Wear comfortable shoes because it can get quite intense at parts, although there’s always public transport and trusty tuk-tuks. If you need a supermarket while you’re there, Pingo Doce is good, Mini Preços are often useful, but Continente was our favourite for price and quality.

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