Built between 1723 and 1757 on the site where a church has existed for a thousand years, the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca stands proudly on the Colle della Guardia south-west of Bologna’s historic centre at an elevation of 300 metres. Visible from the Old Town itself, the Baroque sanctuary is a symbol of Bologna, being the location of an annual religious procession that has led from San Luca to the city centre since 1433. It is this route that laid the way for the construction of the longest portico in the world, leading nearly 4 kilometres from the city to the sanctuary and built between 1674 and 1793. There are 666 arches numbered as the portico curves around the Colle della Guardia in the shape of a snake, symbolically defeated by the sanctuary at the top.
Portico di San Luca
The walk begins from Via Saragozza, just outside of the old city walls. From here, you’ll start walking through porticos, not too dissimilar to the others in the city, before you reach the Arco del Meloncello, indicating the start of the climb. From here, it’s a rather arduous yet beautiful walk through more arches until you eventually reach the top. Bring sensible footwear and water. There are stunning views and occasional frescos decorating the porticos, snaking around until you see a large cross indicating the top of the portico covered ascent, opening to the left to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca and beautiful surroundings. It’s possible to drive up and there’s also a San Luca Express, a tourist train with an audio guide that takes you up there. Head to Piazza Malpighi if you want the express. There also used to be a cable car, which unfortunately hasn’t run in decades.
The Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca
Once here, it’s worth taking a little walk around the sanctuary itself, home to the highest dome in Europe (in terms of elevation, not actual height, but still impressive) as well as an icon of the Virgin Mary allegedly painted by Luke the Evangelist. Entry is free, but for 5 EUR, you’ll gain access to a panoramic terrace on top of the dome with fantastic views over the city and countryside. Avoid this if you’re not a fan of narrow spiral staircases.
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