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CITY OF SURPRISES: HISTORICAL CROSSROADS IN BRATISLAVA

About Bratislava and Slovakia

Although it’s one of Europe’s smaller capitals, the Slovak capital of Bratislava packs in an impressive combination of culinary, historical and cultural attractions influenced by the crossroads of European cultures in which the city finds itself, making it a great destination for a city break. Bratislava is a heady mix of the old and new, with the charm of its Old Town and castle just minutes away from reminders of the city’s communist past.


The first notable settlement was originally founded by the Celtic Boii tribe in around 200 BC, later falling under Roman control between the 1st and 4th centuries AD, introducing viniculture to the area – a tradition that Slovakia still maintains and excels in. Between the 4th and 5th centuries, as the Roman Empire fell, the Slavs settled in the area and formed the first Slavic nation in the 7th century: Samo’s Empire. The area became an important centre for the Slavic states Great Moravia and the Principality of Nitra in the 9th century.


The city and surrounding lands were then occupied by the Hungarian tribes from the East, eventually becoming the Hungarian capital with Hungarian monarchs being crowned at Bratislava’s St Martin’s Cathedral from 1536 to 1830. This was after the Ottoman Empire had failed to take the city after taking the rest of Hungary. During the reign of the Hapsburg Queen Maria Theresa, the city became the most important in Hungary and was visited for performances by the likes of Mozart, Haydn and Beethoven.


St Martin's Cathedral in Bratislava at Night
St Martin's Cathedral in Bratislava at Night

Prior to the First World War, the city was around 40% German, 40% Hungarian and 20% Slovak. This all changed after the First World War when the city was given to the new state of Czechoslovakia to ensure access to the Danube. A period of ethnic conflict followed, with the city being heavily affected by the Holocaust and the Second World War, with heavy Allied bombing and becoming part of the Eastern Bloc in Communist Czechoslovakia. The city was an important centre in the anti-communist movement, becoming the capital of the new Slovak Republic following the dissolution of Czechoslovakia in 1993.


Unsurprisingly there’s plenty to see and do in the city. Here’s our suggestions (click here for food suggestions).


Near the Train Station

Travelling by train is a common way for visitors to arrive in Bratislava, with there being several places of interest nearby. The train station itself was a bomb shelter during the communist period, something to bear in mind when arriving. Nearby, there’s the Hotel Galeria Spirit, which conflicts somewhat with the nearby buildings with its rather eccentric colour scheme. Also nearby is the Grassalkovich Palace and gardens, which is the official residence of the Slovak president. The palace itself was completed in 1760 and was a musical hub in the city as well as a venue often used by the Habsburg royal court. There are other palaces nearby, such as the Summer Archbishop's Palace, while Freedom Square holds the no longer functioning Fountain of Union, designed during the communist era.


Hotel Galeria Spirit
Hotel Galeria Spirit

Those walking around this area will have noticed the very large Stalinist style statue standing on top of one of the hills overlooking the city. This is Slavín, a war memorial completed in 1960 in honour of the Soviet soldiers who died while taking the city in 1945 from the remaining Wehrmacht and pro-Tiso Slovak troops. Not only is this an architecturally fascinating and unusual monument, it also offers incredible views over the Old Town and the Danube below. It is also both a reminder of the city’s turbulent past, which now stands very much at odds with the city you find today.


Slavín
Slavín

Old Town

The Old Town in Bratislava is a romantic city centre filled with beautiful buildings, including churches, palaces and castles, and a sense of wonder on its traditional streets. Arguably the most iconic building in Bratislava is Bratislava Castle, which overlooks the Danube and stands between the modernist Slovak Parliament, the historically important St Martin’s Cathedral and the Old Town walls. The castle allows for views into Austria and, on clear days, Hungary, fitting as this used to be where the Hungarian Crown Jewels were stored. The area by the castle is a great place to walk around for bars, cafes and restaurants, with something of a hipster vibe to the area.


Bratislava Castle
Bratislava Castle

If you walk around with the Old Town walls themselves, this is where you get the most powerful sense of ‘Old Bratislava’. Hviezdoslav Square is one of the city’s most famous landmarks and is surrounded by beautiful buildings, among them the Slovak National Theatre. Cumil the Sewer Worker is also nearby, an unusual statue of a man peeking out of a sewer. Other landmarks in the Old Town include Michael’s Gate, the only surviving old gate into the Old Town, and the art nouveau Blue Church of St Elizabeth, which is perhaps one of the most unique and beautiful churches we’ve ever seen. A short walk away from the Blue Church is the new Slovak National Theatre building, which is an intriguing brutalist building quite unlike the old one in Hviezdoslav Square but impressive nonetheless.


make for good hiking destinations to explore the beautiful countryside. It is a city where you can really sense Slovakia’s history, from Bratislava’s medieval churches and castle to the remnants of its communist period, which seem to be much more visible than in many other former Eastern Bloc cities. It is also a city of incredible food and we highly recommend visiting, having found it one of the cities that most took us by surprise.


Visitors to Bratislava will no doubt be wondering about the odd UFO flying over one of the bridge’s over the Danube. This is Most SNP, meaning the Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising. Unfortunately a significant amount of the Old Town was destroyed for its construction, including the Jewish Quarter (the remains of the old synagogue can still be seen near St Martin’s). The UFO is an observation deck and is also home to a restaurant that serves a mix of Slovak and international cuisine. There’s also a park nearby to relax and take in the views of the Old Town.


Most SNP and the Danube
Most SNP and the Danube

In short, Bratislava has a lot to offer visitors for a city break, while nearby areas like Devín Castle and the Low Tatras make for good hiking destinations to explore the beautiful countryside. It is a city where you can really sense Slovakia’s history, from Bratislava’s medieval churches and castle to the remnants of its communist period, which seem to be much more visible than in many other former Eastern Bloc cities. It is also a city of incredible food and we highly recommend visiting, having found it to be one of the cities that most took us by surprise.

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