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ANCIENT DEER-FILLED CAPITAL: NARA CITY GUIDE

Updated: Feb 16, 2021

Japan’s first capital Nara is an ancient and unique city filled with temples, shrines and deer, guaranteed to be a memorable place for any who visit. In 710, Nara was made Japan’s first permanent capital and as such, it attracted so much Buddhist influence that the Imperial family became worried and decided to later move the capital to Kyoto.


Todaiji


As a result, Nara is home to many of Japan’s most interesting temples and shrines, not to mention a famous and well looked after resident deer population once believed to be messengers of the gods, seen to be so holy that mistreating one used to be punishable by death. So what should you do in Japan’s ancient Buddhist capital?


Temples and Shrines

Our number one pick in Nara is Todaiji, an 8th-century Buddhist temple and one of the most important in all of Japan. It is not only known for housing the world’s largest bronze statue of the Buddha Vairocana, but it was also up until very recently the largest wooden building on earth. Walking into Todaiji is on a par with walking into St Peter’s Basilica in terms of magnificence. Keep an eye out for a pillar with a hole in it. This hole is the size of the enormous Buddha’s nostril and people try to squeeze through it, a sign of good luck and that you will receive enlightenment in the next life.


The enormous Buddha at Todaiji, the nostrils are large enough to crawl through


The grounds around Todaiji are also impressive. You can’t miss the colossal Nandaimon gate leading up to Todaiji, built in 1203, while the nearby Nigatsudo hall has magnificent views over Nara and the surrounding countryside. The Tamukeyama Hachiman Shrine is also nearby.


Another temple worth a visit for fans of history is Gangoji, which is believed by many to be the oldest temple in Japan, built (albeit in a different location) in 588 AD before being moved to Nara in 718 AD. It also houses a miniature pagoda, technically classified as a building, making it Japan’s smallest building. Other temples well worth a visit include Kofukuji, which has one of the tallest pagodas in Japan, the symmetrical Yajushiji and the ancient Horyuji.


Kasuga Taisha


Kasuga Taisha, our favourite shrine in all of Japan, is also in Nara and is dedicated to the city’s guardians. Built in 768 and periodically rebuilt every 20 years, it is famous for its beautiful lanterns while an ancient primeval forest covers the mountain behind the shrine.


Interesting Landmarks and Gardens

Nara Park is obviously a major draw to the city, being the home of the many, many deer who roam the ancient capital’s streets. This is a good place to unwind and get to know the city’s furry friends; try bowing to them, they often bow back. While they’re mostly friendly, some can crowd and get agitated if they think you have food, so it’s important to show them your bare hands to show you don’t have anything in case you’re worried.


Friendly deer


Nara also has many beautiful gardens, including Manyo Botanical Garden close to Kasuga Taisha, which features plants that are important to Japanese culture and literature. Yoshikien (free) and Isuien (paid) gardens are also worth a visit for a traditional Japanese garden experience. We also recommend visiting the top floor of the Nara Prefectural Office for good, free and uncrowded views of the city.



Food

While not as famous for its food as nearby Osaka with its okonomiyaki or Kyoto and its kaiseki, Nara does feature a number of good traditional restaurants and bars for those looking for a meal. We also recommend trying square sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves (a Kansai specialty) and fresh mochi from Nakatanidou, where they make it in the traditional way with two men pounding away mercilessly and lovingly at the mochi mix.



All in all, whether you’re visiting for a day trip or longer, Nara is a relaxed and ancient city filled with history, temples and deer. It is one of our favourite places in Japan and we strongly recommend visiting. It is easily accessible from Kyoto or Osaka via train and the city has a good bus system that makes it easy to get around, while most of the main attractions are within walking distance of each other.

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