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A CITY OF ECCENTRIC ELECTRICITY: TOKYO CITY GUIDE

Updated: Feb 19, 2021

Japan’s capital city and the world’s largest metropolis, Tokyo is a vibrant, modern city of cities steeped in tradition and eccentricity.


It is a city full of history and surprises with something to offer for everyone, so large and with so many stories to tell that even a lifetime here wouldn’t allow you to experience everything. Tokyo, known as Edo at the time, was made the country’s political centre in 1603, quickly becoming one of the largest cities on earth. In 1868, the capital was moved from the ancient imperial capital Kyoto as Japan began to modernise and Edo was renamed ‘Tokyo’, meaning Eastern Capital.


Tokyo view


Large parts of Tokyo were destroyed in the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and during the extensive bombing during World War Two, but it later rose again bigger than ever as the heart of a new Japan. Tokyo is one of our favourite cities in the world and here are our suggestions for what to do in the city.


Sensoji


To begin with, Asakusa is a good area to get to grips with an idea of what Tokyo was like hundreds of years ago. In this area you’ll find Sensoji Temple, which is Tokyo’s oldest temple dating back to the 7th century. From the famous Kaminarimon gate to the Hozomon gate you’ll find Nakamise, an old street filled with stands selling souvenirs. Asakusa is a great place to wander around and we recommend a walk to Hoppy Street (filled with izakaya) and then to Sogenji Temple and its shrine to kappa, which are Japanese water goblins.



Just over the Sumida River from Asakusa you’ll find the Tokyo Skytree, which is the largest structure in Japan and the second tallest free-standing structure in the world, not to mention the largest tower in the world. Although a little pricy to go up, this offers fantastic views of the city.



The Sumida Hokusai Museum is also nearby, dedicated to the renowned woodblock print artist Hokusai, known for works such as The Great Wave Off Kanagawa. This is a beautiful building that also homes some of the most incredible artworks in Japan. If you want a quiet place to relax, head for Kiyosumi Garden, which is a traditional 19th century Japanese garden with a tea house. Also keep an eye out for the Asahi Building, also colloquially known as the Golden Poo… You’ll see why.



For a more modern view of Tokyo, Roppongi Hills is many people’s idea of the city, with large sky-rise buildings all around. The area is filled with things to do, many of which for free, including public art and even a pond filled with fish born on the International Space Station, making them extra-terrestrials (although we didn’t see any when we were there).


The iconic Tokyo Tower is also relatively nearby, as well as Sengakuji temple, which is a small temple holding the graves of the 47 ronin, and the futuristic yet evil-looking Shakaden Reiyukai temple.



Other central areas that are fun to explore include Shinjuku and its famous nightlife in Kabukicho, Omoide Yokocho and Golden Gai, filled with tiny izakaya. While these are interesting to see, we much prefer Koenji’s nightlife, being more relaxed and friendly.

Shinjuku is also home to the evil-looking Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, which is free to go up and makes for a great alternative to the paid Tokyo Tower and the expensive Skytree.



In fact, we think it’s even better because you can see both of these buildings from here. Shibuya is also a good place to explore in the centre, famous for its crossing and statue of the faithful dog Hachiko standing guard just outside its station.



Other unmissable areas include Meiji shrine, one of Japan’s most famous Shinto shrines, and nearby Yoyogi Park and fashion centre Harajuku. This is home to many animal cafes as well as interesting buildings and even a dog rental service where you can take a dog for a walk in nearby Yoyogi Park and feel a million miles away from the busy city.


Another great place to get away from the hustle and bustle of places like Shinjuku, Roppongi and Shibuya is Ueno, home to the sprawling Ueno Park. Here, you’ll find attractions including the Ueno Zoo and the Shitamachi Museum. When in the area, be sure to also visit the beautiful Kaneiji Temple and nearby Nezu Shrine (our favourite shrine in Tokyo, with beautiful alleys of red torii gates and breath-taking azaleas) and Tennoji Temple with its large Buddha statue.


Nezu Shrine


The area around the Imperial Palace grounds is also worth exploring, with beautiful grounds and gardens filled with history, being the home of Japan’s Imperial family. When in the area, it’s also worth visiting the Tokyo National Museum (which is free and includes artefacts like an Egyptian mummy) and the National Museum of Modern Art (which features a history of the development of modern Japanese art and is among the best art galleries in Japan).


Also nearby in Jimbocho is the famous book district, with endless bookstores including the famous Kitazawa Bookstore, which seems to sell everything in all languages. Even if you don’t buy anything, the nostalgic atmosphere makes it worth visiting.


Tradition amidst modernity


Ginza is also close by with many attractions, including the beautiful Kabukizaka Theatre. The Hamarikyu Onshi Teien gardens are nearby, probably our favourite gardens in Tokyo, with a traditional teahouse nestled in calm among the skyscrapers where you can relax with a cup of maccha. Also look out for the bizarre Nakagin Capsule Hotel nearby, which looks like it was made out of washing machines.


TeamLab


A little way out of the centre, the artificial island Odaiba is a major commercial and entertainment area worth visiting. Head there from Shimbashi station in the centre and see if you spot the Ghibli Clock and one of its famous performances. With major attractions like the Palette Town shopping and entertainment district, Rainbow Bridge, a giant Gundam robot and a replica of the Statue of Liberty, Odaiba is a very strange place with a whole lot to offer. We strongly recommend visiting the famous TeamLab digital art gallery, which is a little pricy but worth the visit to Tokyo alone.



Part of the fun of Tokyo is exploring further afield, with our favourite areas being in West Tokyo and its suburbs. In places like Koenji, you’ll find a large number of untouristed boutiques, bars and restaurants, while in Mitaka you’ll find the Ghibli Museum and Sanrio Puriland (like a Hello Kitty Disneyland) in Tama, along with Tama Zoo, which is one of our favourite zoos in the world. From mountains to beaches and bustling cityscapes, Tokyo has it all, which is why it’s one of our favourite ever cities.



If you have time, and it’s very likely you won’t, it’s worth visiting nearby Nikko and the ancient capital Kamakura for a taste of older Japan without needing to go all the way to Kyoto, or visiting Yokohama to experience an exciting fusion of cultures from all over the world. Mt Fuji and the Fuji Five Lakes are also nearby, as is Disneyland.



The Fuji Five Lakes area is easily accessible by train and if you’re in the area from around April to mid-June, you should head to the Fuji Shibazakura Festival, with beautiful pink mosses and Mt Fuji in the background.


You can read about what to eat in Tokyo here.

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