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A CITY BUILT ON FOOD: LYON TRAVEL GUIDE

Updated: Feb 16, 2021

The third largest city in France and the capital of the Rhône-Alpes region, Lyon is a must-visit city renowned for its gastronomy, wealth of traditions and history, beautiful architecture and fortuitous location.


View over the Saône


Built at the point where the Rhône and Saône rivers converge, Lyon was once the centre of Roman life in Gaul, leaving behind among the most impressive Roman ruins in France. It later developed as a trading hub due to its locations on the rivers, as a crossroads between northern and southern Europe, with a particular focus on a silk industry. This made Lyon a wealthy city and the impact of this history can be seen in its buildings and tasted in its cuisine.


It is also a fantastically important city in the history of cinema and renowned by many as the gastronomic capital of France. With some of France’s best wine regions and most beautiful areas also just a short way away, Lyon has a lot to offer visitors. So what should you do when in Lyon?


Vieux Lyon

Meaning Old Lyon, this strip along the bank of the Saône is the second largest Renaissance architecture area in Europe, after Venice. Dating back to the Middle Ages, the buildings in this area date back from around 400 to 600 years ago, built by wealthy merchants settling in the city. It is due to this that it attracts many visitors and is at the heart of the city’s tourist centre, with narrow cobble-stoned streets. Be sure to visit the Gothic St Jean Cathedral (built between 1180 and 1480) and its incredible astronomical clock, archaeological garden and ancient wall.



Nearby, walk down Rue du Boeuf, Place du Change and the beautiful Palais du Justice, where the head of the Lyon Gestapo stood trial in 1987. The Musée Gadagne (dedicated to the history of Lyon and its marionette tradition, set up inside a beautiful medieval palace) and Musée de la Miniature (dedicated to film set miniatures, reflecting the city’s love of cinema) are also nearby, as are the Great Synagogue of Lyon and St Paul’s church.


Fourvière

A steep walk up from Vieux Lyon and the banks of the Saône (or you can take a funicular up if you’d like) and you’ll find Fourvière, a hill overlooking the city below and home to the best-preserved remains of the Roman presence in the city as well as some of the city’s best known religious buildings. First, head for the Roman theatres in the heart of what was once the Roman Gallic capital of Lugdunum. These are fantastically preserved thanks to the city’s fortunate location, offering remarkable views of the city.


Roman Ruins


Head then for the top of the hill and the iconic Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, which you’ll be able to spot looming on top of the hill from all over the city. This 19th century basilica uses a mix of architectural styles and has a special significance for the people of Lyon. A short walk away you’ll find a tower resembling a smaller Eiffel Tower, in fact built as a replica in 1894. This entire area offers fantastic views, although there is little in the way of food and drink.



Presqu'île

Situated between the banks of the Saône in the west and the Rhône in the east, this is the heart of the city, and the go-to place for eating out, drinking and shopping. Largely built on reclaimed land in the 18th century, Presqu'île also boasts some of the city’s most beautiful buildings and interesting sights. Head for Place des Terreaux, with its beautiful 17th century Hôtel de Ville and the fantastic Museum of Fine Arts, one of the best museums in the city.


Place des Terreaux


Also note the large fountain in this square, sculpted by the same man who designed the Statue of Liberty. The nearby distinctive 19th century Opera House is also an unmissable landmark in the area, while the Fresque des Lyonnais features a colossal painting on a building of the city’s most famous inhabitants, from legendary chef Paul Bocuse to the Lumière brothers, the inventors of cinema, giving you an insight into the history of the city.



It is also worth visiting Hôtel-Dieu, once a colossal 18th century hospital and still an iconic building right on the banks of the Rhône. It is now home to a hotel and shopping complex. Other nearby attractions include the Palace of Commerce, Place des Jacobins and its beautiful fountain and Place Bellecour, which is the largest clear square in Europe and a location used for many events. The Romanesque Basilique St Martin d'Ainay and Gothic St Nizier church are also in this area, as well as many restaurants, shops and bars, and places to take a little cruise on the rivers and get to know the city.


Hôtel-Dieu


Croix-Rousse

Named a UNESCO World Heritage site along with Fourvière, Vieux Lyon and Presqu'île, the Croix-Rousse is a little north of the city centre, up a relatively steep hill. This area has fantastic views, bars and restaurants, as well as shops to buy local specialities from wine to sausages to cheese and chocolates. Once the working-class hub for the city’s canuts (silk workers), it still has a more relaxed village vibe compared with the rest of Lyon. This is a good area to visit to watch the sun set over the city below or to walk through its traboules, the ancient walkways once used by the city’s silk traders to keep their products dry. Head up Montée de la Grande Côte and visit the Roman Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules and the Mur des Canuts, painted in dedication to the city’s distinct architecture.


Climbing up to Croix-Rousse


Over the Rhône

Head over the Rhône and you’ll be in one of Lyon’s most beautiful areas. Walk along the beautiful banks of the Rhône and head for its biggest attraction, Parc de la Tête d'Or – an enormous garden filled with attractions, and one of the largest and most famous in France. With a free zoo, deer park, fun fair, deer garden, botanical garden and more, this is a great place to get away from the city and take in nature.


Auditorium of the Orchestre National de Lyon


The Part Dieu district is also nearby, which is the city’s business district. Tour Part-Dieu has good views over the city, especially at night, while the Auditorium of the Orchestre National de Lyon next door is a fascinating building. Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse is also in this area, in homage to the city’s most famous chef and dedicated to the city’s cuisine and producers. The Institut Lumière is also nearby.


Confluence

With decidedly more modern architecture than further north in Presqu'île, the Confluence neighbourhood is a redevelopment of the city’s former industrial area, fast becoming a cultural hub in the city. With interesting bars and buildings in the area, we recommend walking along the banks of the Saône and paying a visit to the Musée des Confluences and La Sucrière.


View from the Musée des Confluences


All in all, Lyon is a fantastic city to visit with a lot to offer. Despite this and being a very large city, it still feels very relaxed and is a good alternative unmistakably French destination for those who find Paris a little too hectic. Easy to get around with reasonable prices and some of the best food and quality of life in France, this is a must-visit, not to mention the nearby vineyards and the Alpine town of Annecy or its famous Festival of Lights and film festival.



Of course, Lyon is most famous for its food. Read here for more on what to eat when in the city and here for a guide to the wines of Beaujolais and the Côtes du Rhône.

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