It was the ancient Greeks who introduced wine to much of the rest of Europe, from the south of France to Sicily, planting vines and spreading their worship of Dionysus – the Greek god of wine. The ancient Greeks were known for their love of wines, but oddly modern Greece seems to be somewhat overlooked, which is done at wine-lovers’ peril. It is a unique and ancient wine culture with fascinating diversity and complexity that rivals any of its better-known rivals, excelling at native reds, whites and more. Here’s a basic guides to the country’s regions.
Aegean Islands
Greece has a number of different winegrowing regions that lend themselves to different grapes and styles of wine. The Aegean Islands, to begin with, are great for white wines. They are famous for their soils with the island of Santorini in particular producing great quality white Assyrtiko (a Greek favourite) with clean citrus flavours, Athiri (similar to Assyrtiko and also popular in Rhodes) and its famous Vinsanto, a sweet traditional white wine with unusual tannins predominantly made with Assyrtiko and Athiri. The Aegean island of Samos is also famous for its Muscat, which vary in sweetness and can be a mix of Muscat spirit and juice, with very sweet floral flavours.
Sweet Greek wines overlooking Athens
Crete
Still at sea, Crete also has a unique wine culture, particularly well-suited to reds. Syrah is often blended with the very tannic native Mandilaria and rich Kotsifali for well-rounded smooth, sweet, fruity yet spicy reds. Indigenous Romeiko is also popular on Crete for making reds, roses and whites, as well as dessert wines and the island’s favourite Tsikoudia (a type of typically homemade spirit that is virtually essential after every meal on the island).
The Peloponnese
The Peloponnese to the north of Crete also has a fantastic reputation for wine, particularly for its Agiorgitiko – an easy drinking red grape comparable to Beaujolais Nouveau and Merlot that can be aged for a few years, fruity, smooth and a touch of spice. This area also produces Mavrodaphne, which is a fortified dessert wine comparable to sherry, as well as white Moschofilero with flavours of sweet apricot and almond.
Western Greece and Central Greece
Moving further north, you find Epirus, which is known for its sparkling Debina, as well as the Ionian islands on the west coast, which lend themselves to smoky Robola white wines. Move inland again and you’ll be in central Greece, with the area around Athens being known for its white fruity Savatiano, with flavours of melon and pear. It is also often used in making Retsina, a traditional wine infused with pine resin with a very distinctive yet pleasant pine flavour. Nearby Rapsani is also known for its complex red blends.
Barrels of retsina at a traditional restaurant in Athens
Northern Greece
Move further north still and you’ll reach Thessaly, which is famous for its white Roditis, with light citrus flavours. Lastly, at the very north of Greece, is Macedonia, with the city of Thessaloniki nearby. This area is renowned for its complex, elegant wines. Malagousia, for example is an aromatic white grape that was virtually extinct until resurrection in the 1970s, while tannic red Xinomavro is often compared to Nebbiolo, with dark fruit, spice and liquorice notes. This also ages very well.
A Greek red stored in clay and an amber wine
Greece not only has enormous versatility and a wealth of tradition in its wines, it also is unafraid to experiment with new developments in the wine world, with the best orange wine we’ve ever had being a Greek orange wine. If you get a chance, try to find a red wine stored in a traditional clay pot, which can add interesting notes. It’s also worth noting that Greece produces great quality brandies, notably Metaxa, while grapes are also used in its other favourite spirits, the anise-flavoured ouzo and the grappa-esque tsipouro or raki.
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